NEW AND VINTAGE COSTUME JEWELRY DESIGNERS, MARKS,
MANUFACTURERS REFERENCE INFORMATION & HISTORY
Special thanks for these pages is given to Shirley Wiesmann who has compiled this data on company history and their designers from a wide variety of sources.

A-C D-F G-I J-L M-O
P-R S-T U-Z Bibliography HOME

DALSHEIM: Late 1930’s - 1956

Dalsheim Accessories Inc. was founded by Maurice J. Dalsheim in NY in the late 1930’s producing costume jewelry made exclusively of seed pearls, clear and colored glass crystal or plastic beads, Austrian aurora borealis, clear and colored rhinestones, genuine bone (in 1951), and small goldtone and silvertone metal novelty pins similar to the classically inspired Victorian designs that were sometimes accented with enamel work. The designs for necklaces, bracelets, brooches, pendants, and earrings were produced with silvertone and goldtone metal bases, embedded with prong set faceted fresh water pearls (colors of clear, pink, pale blue, jonquil or chandelier-clear), colored stones of topaz, amethyst, sapphire, emerald, watermelon, and onyx, Austrian glass crystals and clear, colored rhinestones, and carved white and colored transparent Lucite plastic beads. Dalsheim jewelry advertisements appear in popular magazines including Vogue in 1958.

Most of the Dalsheim jewelry was not signed but carried a Dalsheim tag when new. Those pieces that were signed were marked: “DALSHEIM“, “DALSHEIM encircled with a C” after 1955 for copyright, “WHITE JET” beginning in 1939. Dalsheim Accessories Inc. ceased operations around 1956.
 

David Mandel “THE SHOW MUST GO ON“: 1980’s to Present

David Mandel studied fashion design while attending the Traphagen School of Fashion and the Art Student League in New York City, wherein, the latter school taught language art, and development through immersion, the practices of drawing, painting, sculpture, printmaking and assemblage. Mandel became a New York fashion designer producing jewelry, beaded clothing and art items. That led him, in the 1980’s into the world of high-end fashion designing costume jewelry, which was his main fashion emphasis along with vintage clothing and accessories.

David Mandel apprenticed with Lawrence Vrba who was a respected costume and theatrical jeweler and was able to accept commissions for jewelry projects of his own in his off time. His first year in business in the 1980’s contained unsigned jewelry pieces and then Mandel left Vrba to establish his own business, creating his own tags and signing his designed works: “THE SHOW MUST GO ON”.

David Mandel collaborates with other clothing designers and his clothing has been worn by celebrities in many fields. Mandel’s work has caught the eye of collectible and vintage dealers and his creations are being sought after by collectors throughout North America, Europe and Japan. His jewelry designs are made into rings, necklaces, bracelets, charm necklaces and bracelets, pins, earrings, crowns and tiaras using base metals of gold tone, silver tone, nickel-rhodium, and pewter with clear and colored rhinestones, colored glass stones, old colored Czech stones of the 1950s, faux turquoise, amethyst, topaz, emerald, and ruby stones embedded in the base metal. His whimsical, fantasy, and object jewelry creations, made up of either 1 or 2 or 3 piece sets (necklace, pin, bracelet, earrings etc.), to name a few, include sailfish, octopus, lobster, URN, spider web, snowman, ballerina, motorcycle, and flower arrangements. His jewelry pieced produced are very limited editions or one-of-a-kind, are high-end costume jewelry pieces selling from $100 to the $1,000 plus price tags. It is beautifully made with flawless and vibrant stones. David Mandel is said to have hoped, through his creations, he can make the world a more enjoyable and exciting place to be in. He indicates that fear has no place here. Only fantasy, ecstasy and bewilderment.
 

DAVID YURMAN: 1979 - Present

David Yurman is recognized internationally as one of America’s leading fine jewelers and along with his wife Sybil, they are known worldwide for wearable, classic designed jewelry and watches that carry distinctive signature quality. Prior to starting the David Yurman Company is New York City in 1979, the couple were artists of 20 years with respected careers in sculpture and painting.

David Yurman’s jewelry is of exception high quality. Base metals of sterling silver, 14K and 18K gold with gemstones of rhodolite garnet, onyx, amethyst, topaz, bezel, sapphires, emeralds, and diamonds and other precious stones are set in the metal of rings, necklaces, chains of necklace charms, bracelets including bangles, pendants, cufflinks, and earrings for women, men and even children.

The Yurman name on jewelry is associated with “Status Symbol”, therefore many knock-offs-copies, inspired by David Yurman, and fakes are found in the market place today. For his own protection, his brand of jewelry, on the Cable Collection is where his signature is trademarked, copyrighted and stamped with his designer mark that guarantees a buyer that the purchase is a real piece of his jewelry. To name a few jewelry lines, David Yurman has designed and created the iconic Cable Collection, numerous Limited Editions, Silver Ice with an R in a circle, Pearls, Fine Timepieces, Men’s & Cable Kids.

Marks: “DY925, 750”, “DY750”, “DY925”, “C in a circle for copyright D. YURMAN”. His past advertising campaign has included famous models such as Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. His jewelry is sold in his Yurman Store, in-store boutiques, and in Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Ave., Neiman Marcus, and other top notch retailers including authorized independent jewelry stores. His earnings a year are well over a million settling copyright and trade infringement lawsuits. The David Yurman Company continues to grow in 2006 at a phenomenal pace.
 

D’ORLAN: 1960 - 2006

The D’Orlan Jewelry Ltd. Company was founded by Maurice J. Bradden in 1957 manufacturing fashion jewelry in Toronto, Canada. The D’Orlan jewelry designs produced used the finest hand set Austrian crystals and rhinestones and Japanese glass pearls. Their jewelry lines were unique insofar as most manufacturing companies buy components from other companies and simply put them together. D’Orlan manufactured everything at their factory with the exception of Japanese glass polished pearls and Austrian crystals and rhinestones. The stones are imbedded in a triple plated 22 kt. gold finish over pewter base metal that ensured a consistency of color that was developed by the D’Orlan and Nina Ricci companies. In 1979, the D’Orlan Company acquired Marcel Boucher jewelry molds from his wife , 13 years after his death, thereby helping the company to produce costume jewelry of higher quality and workmanship. The D’Orlan jewelry does not posses the outstanding craftsmanship of the original Marcel Boucher jewelry pieces. The jewelry has the look of newness. It is said to be using different shapes, using different details of design, using newer faux stones, and has a different enamel used look. The mark has also been changed to: “d’Orlan”.

In 1984, D’Orlan Jewelers Ltd. of Toronto, Canada formed a partnership with the Nina Ricci Enterprises of Paris, France (known throughout the world in the fashion industry for French designs and French luxury goods including perfumes). This partnership occurred due to the impression made by Maurice J. Bradden, D’Orlan’s founder because of the classic designs of high quality and the ability to develop high fashion jewelry lines that complemented the Nina Ricci image. Together the companies developed a high standard plating process that highly regarded to include a 22 karat triple-plated finish over a pewter base metal that ensures a consistency of color. This process has been incorporated into the D’Orlan and Nina Ricci jewelry lines.

Creed Canada, an exclusive Canadian distributor for many years purchased all remaining D’Orlan and Nina Ricci jewelry produced before the manufacturer, D’Orlan Company, closed its doors in March of 2006. It sells some of the D’Orlan and Nina Ricci Fashion Jewelry, necklaces, earrings, brooches, bracelets, D’Orlan box sets and pendants on its website along with other name brands including Rachel, La Scala, Beaded Jewelry, Religious Jewelry, Chains, La Manufacture Watches, and Fontenay Watches. See the
Website: creedcanada.com
 

DOROTHY BAUER: 1982 - Present

Dorothy Bauer, a jewelry designer and classically trained sculptor of Berkeley, California created the company: A Piece of the Rainbow in 1982, selling hand-blown glass jewelry. That same year, she changed the company’s name to Dorothy Bauer Designs creating jewelry using Swarovski and Austrian crystals and rhinestones. Each piece of jewelry has been beautifully constructed and soldered by hand at the Berkeley site.

Dorothy Bauer continues today to use Swarovski and Austrian crystals and rhinestones in her jewelry creations. These components are secured in place by findings and these findings modify the pieces of jewelry produced into wearable art forms that are very versatile. Dorothy Bauer’s unusual original creation of jewelry designs are made into pins, earrings, bracelets, necklaces, hair ornaments, belt buckles and shoe clips using base metals of fine silver, 23k gold, antique silver, and antique brass. Mark: “BAUER” in a plaque on the back of the jewelry pieces.

Bauer’s jewelry designs are outstanding especially her Christmas trees, some made as Limited Editions with hand engraved name and numbered.. Green, multi color and 3-D tree pins with prong or faceted crystals and rhinestones numbering in the thousands highlight the encased colored lights, ornaments, candles, toys, bells, and candy canes of the Christmas trees . Christmas Ornamental pins are created including, to mention a few, the rocking horse, snare drum, Rudolph and sleigh, large Santa face, fireplace, and bulbs. Some of these designs are made not only for pins but also for earrings, bracelets, and necklaces. Bauer’s other jewelry creations include All Occasional Pieces: hearts, flower baskets, flowers, animals, birds, and Patriotic items. It is said that her creations are something for everyone, are witty, colorful, and a fun collection of wearable sculptures and pictures that express your humor or support your concerns putting sparkle in your day and night by wearing these produced jewelry pieces. Note: Bauer’s newest creation is Dog Jewelry using the same components as in her regular jewelry lines.

For jewelry creations and questions in regard to jewelry available, contact Dorothy Bauer Designs, 702 Harrison St., Unit A, Berkeley, CA 94710, phone# 800-531-3087. Internet sites:

Past and Present Jewelry - Dorothy Bauer

Dorothy Bauer Designs Swarovski Austrian Crystal Jewelry

Sunday Color Dorothy Bauer Swarovski Crystal and Accessories

Dorothy Bauer Dog Jewelry: Online Dog Boutique: Fashionable Dog.
 

DANECRAFT JEWELRY: (1920’s)  1940 - Present

The Primavera brothers, Victor Sr. and Thomas Jr., who had emigrated from Italy to the USA in 1910, founded the Primavera Brothers Jewelry Company in the 1920’s in Providence, RI producing jewelry and silver beads. The elder Thomas Primavera Sr. never came to America but, in Italy, through the earlier years, the Primavera family of successive jewelers dating back to the Seventeenth Century when they started to become a well recognized name and supplier of fine jewelry and silver beads to the Italian wealthy, royalty, and aristocratic families. Victor Sr. and Thomas Jr. learned the art of design and the jewelry making trade in Italy, from their father under the candlelight.

The Primavera Brothers Jewelry Company was one of the early manufacturers of costume jewelry in America and a pioneer in introducing the quality designs used previously in the fine jewelry manufacturing industry. After the death of Thomas Primavera Jr. in 1934, Victor Primavera Sr. founded the Danecraft Corporation under a parent company, Felch and Company in Providence, RI manufacturing sterling silver jewelry and silver beads designed by Victor Primavera under the Danecraft name.

The Primavera company began using more modern machines, producing quality sterling silver and vermeil (gold metal over sterling) jewelry with designs similar to the Scandinavian silver jewelry. According to the Primavera family, the name Danecraft was adopted because of Victor's preference for, and influences by, the Danish silversmithing tradition and designs.

In the 1940’s, Victor Primavera Sr., as its President and Victor Primavera Jr. as vice president, founded their own company, Danecraft and began operating as an independent company expanding , through the years, and manufacturing a large amount of silver jewelry and silver beads with varied exquisite designs often inspired by nature. Advertisement of their product lines appeared regularly in major national magazines and the sterling silver jewelry was sold through the finer department stores in the USA. It is said, that the Danecraft sterling silver jewelry produced, was some of the best manufactured in terms of quality of design and craftsmanship the industry had to offer during post-war decades. Marks: “DANECRAFT, R in a circle, STERLING”, “DANECRAFT, C in a circle for copyright, STERLING”, DANECRAFT STERLING”, “DANECRAFT, Reg. U.S. Pat. Off., STERLING”, “DANECRAFT on an oval signature plaque”, “DANECRAFT STER.”, “Danecraft 14kt Gold in script“, “Danecraft with a C for copyright in script“.

In the 1970’s, Danecraft introduced their vermeil lines with 24k gold over sterling and expanded their distribution network along with designing a collection of 14k jewelry and silver beads under the name: “Primavera Jewelry and Silver Beads” that the company unveiled in New York which was made up largely of smaller pieces of jewelry with delicate and intricate designs that showed popularity in those years and were marketed in competition with the fine gold jewelry produced by other companies.

In 1977, the company changed its name to the Felch-Wehr Company but still markets under the name Danecraft. In the 1980‘s, the company continued to expand and diversify their jewelry designs and production by creating jewelry and silver beads in various classifications: the upscale “VITTORIO” by DANECRAFT line and the unique and elegant styling of the “Whimsical & Novelty Pins“ line. Danecraft, under its new company name, is still privately owned and operated by the Primavera family. Today, Victor Primavera Jr. is serving as chairman of the board and Victor Primavera III overseas operations of the company. Two senior designers are currently creating most of the new jewelry lines for Danecraft. Leslie Block Prip is the main designer of the sterling silver line while Lounne DiBella designs the "Vittorio by Danecraft" line. Skilled craftsman are still working at the company using precious metals in designing and producing the same high quality fashion jewelry that the Primavera family has been known for throughout its history. The company, under the name Felch-Wehr, is still in business today, in 2005, and their costume jewelry of sterling silver and gold metal content is sold in better department stores throughout the USA.

DEAUVILLE: 1850 - Present

The J.R. Wood & Sons Company, founded by John R. Wood, manufactured Deauville jewelry in Brooklyn, NY starting in 1850. His sons Rawson L. and St. John Wood also joined the firm. In 1919, the company was recognized for its skills in diamond cutting, wedding ring making and for the manufacturing of fine gold and platinum jewelry. In the early years, the company employed many workers (the facilities were large enough to accommodate up to 1,000 workers) for the firm housed a Platinum Department, a Mounting Department, a Signet Ring Department and a Special Order Department to produce their jewelry lines. The company designed and produced, bracelets, broaches/pins, dainty lavalieres, cuff buttons, cuff links, bangles, rings, lockets, and pocket watches using 10K, 14K and 18K gold (white, green and yellow gold during the war years) with some filigree and platinum metal use. Wesselton diamonds, ruby, sapphire, amethyst and garnet stones, seed pearls and outstanding rhinestones were used in their designs. In 1970, the company became a part of Lenox, Inc., the Keepsake Division, Trenton, NJ., and in 1975, the firms name was changed to Art-Carved Inc. Mark: "Deauville", "Art-Carved" for wedding rings. In their later years, the company produced some of their jewelry of less quality with black Japanned and gold plated metal bases using colored rhinestones and crystals, aurora beads, and white baroque beads. Queen For A Day gave away Art-Carved jewelry. The company is still in business today.

DEJA: 1939 - 1953

The Deja Costume Jewelry, Inc. N.Y.C. was founded by Solomon Finkelstein in 1939 Producing Deja jewelry. The company’s name was changed to Reja in 1941. The jewelry is characterized for its extremely high quality costume jewelry using colorful rhinestones, moonstones and paved clear stones and produced enamel figurals using potmetal and sterling silver. Mark: "Deja" and "DeJay Original", "Deja Reg.", REJA" 1931 to 1941. The company, under the name of Reja went bankrupt in 1953.

DE LILLO: 1967 - 1976

William de Lillo, a Belgian designer, established his company with former Miriam Haskell designer Robert F. Clark in 1967 after working for Louis Comfort Tiffany and Harry Winston in New York. Their work on jewelry and accessories is considered very innovative and of high quality using Swarovski crystal beads and stones. In 1976, the designers moved to France and worked as freelance designers selling their services to Schiapirelli and Nina Ricci among others. Mark: "de Lillo". During the final years of the great Miriam Haskell designs, Clark was her chief designer. Willian de Lillo ceased work in 1976.

DE MARIO: 1945 - 1965

Robert De Mario founded the company in New York City in 1945 after working for Miriam Haskell. De Mario jewelry is characterized by beautiful designs, excellent craftsmanship which often incorporates hand-sewn brass strung threads using faceted Austrian beads and rhinestones and flux pearls arranged in an array of harmonious colors, fashions and styles The jewelry is relatively rare and high prices are received in the collectible market. Mark: "De Mario with and without a copyright symbol" , "Hagler for De Mario", and "Hagler/De Mario". De Mario retired and closed his shop in 1965.

DE NICOLA: 1950s - 1970s

Jerry De Nicola started De Nicola, Inc. NY in the 1950s producing exquisite craftsmanship in jewelry using rhinestones and gold plated metal. Mark: "De NICOLA with a copyright symbol" 1957-1970, "DE NICOLA", "The Real Look" in 1962, and "Young America" in 1964. The company ceased operations in the 1970s.

 

D’ORLAN: 1960 - Present

D’Orlan Jewellers Ltd. was founded in Toronto, Canada by Maurice Bradden in 1957. Bradden previously trained under French jeweler, Marcel Boucher who established the Marcel Boucher & Cie Company, New York City in 1937. Mr. Bradden moved to Toronto, Canada establishing his own company producing his own brands of jewelry along with producing costume jewelry exclusively for the Boucher company. Marcel Boucher died in 1966 and his wife Sandra took over the operation of the company that was now located in East Toronto, Canada. By the early 1970s, the D’Orlan jewelry brands were successfully distributed in North America, Europe and Japan.
In 1979, Marcel Boucher’s company was sold to D’Orlan Industries of Toronto, Canada. The workmanship and details on the jewelry being produced from the Boucher molds by D’Orlan is of high quality but, it has been said, that it does not measure up to the older pieces produced by Marcel Boucher. All D’Orlan stones are machine cut from the Swarovski Austrian lead crystals that are multi-faceted and set by hand, in gold-tone and silver-tone metal, in settings of pave, prong, bezel and channel. In 1984, D’Orlan Jewelers Ltd. formed a partnership with the Nina Ricci enterprises of Paris, France (known throughout the world in the fashion industry for French designs and French luxury goods including perfumes). This partnership occurred due to the impression made by Mr. Bradden’s classic designs of high quality and the ability to develop high fashion jewelry lines that complemented the Nina Ricci image. Together the companies developed a high standard plating process that is highly regarded to include a 22 karat triple-plated finish over a pewter base metal that ensures a consistency of color (this process has been incorporated into the Nina Ricci jewelry also).

"Canada (Canadex International Trading) is the sole and exclusive distributor for the well-known Nina Ricci brand of fashion jewelry and accessories for the Middle East region. The company supplies well-known brand names in fashion jewelry and accessories, ladies wear and lingerie to large chain and speciality stores across the Middle East and worldwide. Nina Ricci’s fashion jewelry and accessories are exclusively manufactured under license from Nina Ricci by a Canadian company named D’orlan in Canada." (Taken from Internet site: Canada comes to Motexha - AME info Business News).
D’Orlan and Nina Ricci’s costume and precious jewelry is sold throughout the world in Nina Ricci Stores, in high end department stores and boutiques. The jewelry produced by D’Orlan since 1979, including the molds of Boucher, has the look of newness, using different shapes, different details of design, newer faux stones, and has a different enamel look. The designer mark has also been changed. The jewelry pieces have a design inventory number, a copyright symbol, and are now signed "d’Orlan". The D’Orlan Jewellers is still operating today at 195 Old Weston Rd., Toronto, Canada.

DE ROSA: 1934 - 1970

Ralph De Rosa founded the Ralph De Rosa Company in NY in 1934. It was a family operated jewelry manufacturing company including the names of Elvira, Virginia, and Theresa De Rosa, The company marketed designs for Schiaparelli and found little time to produce and market their own designs, therefore, it limited production of their own jewelry lines. Some of their designs were not marked and sold to J.C. Penny, Sears & Roebuck and other fine stores using their own hang tag as a mark. De Rosa produced floral jewelry designs with rhinestones, synthetic stones and flux pearls on sterling silver and gold plated metal accented with exquisite shading of enamel. Mark: "De ROSA Designed Jewels" since Jan. 1946", "R De ROSA Sterling". The company ceased operations in 1970.

DIAMONDBAR: 1907 - 1931

The Wachenheimer Brothers Company of Providence, RI was started in 1907 specializing in bracelets and bangles. Mark: "Diamondbar" and "STERLING PAT.# DIAMONDBAR". The company ceased operations in 1931.

DODDS OR DODDZ: 1950 - Out of Business?

Little is known about the company that produced DODDS costume jewelry. The jewelry produced included faceted colored rhinestones with goldtone metal some with 3D designs. It was of higher quality including the multicolored stones. Mark: "DODDZ" that is not always legible. The jewelry is scarce and therefore, is demanding a high price for collectors.

DOMINIQUE: 1992 - Present

Dominique jewelry has only been signed by “Dominique” since 1992 for the maker had previously, through the years, designed jewelry for Weiss and Eisenberg. The designer is a man who is very humble and private and has no interest in being publicized.

The stones in Dominique’s jewelry pieces are all hand set and prong set with the finest small to large Swarovski rhinestones and crystals of diamond clear to colors of purple, violet, emerald green, red, sapphire blue, aqua, white milk glass, rose, and pink to name a few. The jewelry pieces produced are said to be the best made with quality stones, manufactured from only the rough stones of flawless clarity, and cut to maximum brilliance.

The most common shapes of gemstones used include round, oval, pear or teardrop, navette or marquise, square, rectangular, baguette, trapezium, and lozenge. It has been said that a Dominique simulated diamond crystal is equal in appearance to the carat size of a real one carat diamond and his jewelry pieces provide the look and appeal of real diamonds at a fraction of the cost. The base metals used include plating of gold, silver or platinum. Jewelry designed by Dominique include brooches/pins, bracelets, necklaces, and earrings that are absolutely gorgeous, color scale perfect, superbly sparkling with brilliance, and stone clarity. Dominique is making less pieces of jewelry every year so his pieces are becoming highly collectible.

DU JAY: 1934 - 1972

The company was founded by Julius Hirsch and Jacques H. Leff as a division of Hirsch & Jeff in 1934 making precious jewelry with gold filled and rhodium plated base metal. The jewelry contained tiny pave rhinestones, jewel-tone glass beads, different shades of faux pearls and enameling similar to the metallic luster produced by Boucher. The floral jewelry produced was life-like in content with realistic coloring and movement in the leaves. Mark: "Du Jay" in script form, and "1/20-12K GF DU JAY". The company went out of business in 1972.
 

EISENBERG: 1914 - Present

The Eisenberg Manufacturing Company was founded in Chicago, IL in 1914 by Jonas Eisenberg, who emigrated from Austria to the U.S. around 1880. The company, in the beginning, began producing high quality women’s fashionable clothing each piece highlighted by a jeweled accessory, pin or broach sewn or pinned to the dress. The company used the best of Austrian rhinestones (high in lead content that produced glimmer and sparkle) provided by the Swarovski Company of Austria in the pins/broaches. The addition of pins/broaches to the clothing and dresses created a complete and distinctive high fashion look for Eisenberg clothing. Soon it became apparent that the customers were not only interested in the clothing but also wanted to purchase the jewelry accessory separate from the clothing. Around 1930 the Eisenberg Company also began the production and marketing of their jewelry that included , necklaces, bracelets, pins/broaches, and earrings. Pins/broaches were now sold separate from the clothing. Eisenberg jewelry is still prized today because of its beautiful and elegant designs, its superior workmanship and its quality materials of the best shimmering rhinestones, and simulated glass stones and pearls used with Sterling Silver, white base metal, and silver and gold plated metals. The early jewelry was not marked. Marks: "Eisenberg

Original" with copyright symbol 1935-1945, "E" in script, and "Sterling" 1943-1948 during and right after the World War II war years,"EISENBERG ICE" in block letters 1950-1958 using rhodium metal. The jewelry produced during 1958 to 1970 was not marked, "Eisenberg" used on enamels with a copyright symbol in 1970. The company began using "Eisenberg Ice" in script letters in 1970 although many pieces are not marked but came with a Eisenberg tag. A limited number of old broach styles, the "Classic Series", have been reproduced in 1994 and 2000 by the Eisenberg Company and are marked "Eisenberg Ice" in script with a date under the name or "EISENBERG ICE U.S. PAT. PEND," 1970 to present. The jewelry has never been sold at low prices, in fact, the 1950's advertisements listed jewelry pieces at $10.00 to $30.00 per piece. Eisenberg jewelry is highly sought after especially the earlier pieces. The Eisenberg Company is still operating as of this date in 2004.
 

ELAINE RADER: 1962 - Present

Elaine Rader was born and raised in NYC with her father being a professional artists. She began making jewelry 17 years ago and for 12 years has been a full time artist with her jewelry displayed at Galleries and American Fine Arts and Kraft Shows around the country. Her work is not displayed in any retail galleries.

Elaine Rader alone designs and creates one-of-a-kind jewelry for personal adornment. It is organic, sculptural and primitive in designs. Her works are an expression of the North Georgia Mountains, of the surrounding nature where she lives (Blue Ridge, GA). She finds beauty in the shapes of bones and of trees in winter and rocks perching in a river balancing color, texture and shape using sterling silver with 22K gold accents for her pins, pendants, necklaces, earrings, rings, vessels, and jewelry sculptures.

Elaine Rader’s designs incorporate techniques of forging, raising and various surfaces giving the metal depth and texture. Her jewelry designs consists of a variety of fossil materials to boulder opals, precious and semi precious stones and may include fresh water pearls, Tahitian pearls and blister pearls (Mabe), faux gemstones, crystal and colored rhinestones. Mark in script: “Elaine Rader”, an oval gold plate “ELAINE RADER”. A list of her Shows/Dates for 2006 can be found on her internet website “elaineraderjewelry.com”. Her jewelry designs have won many awards through the years.

Elaine Rader’s jewelry is expensive, has highly imaginative designs, is usually massive in size, and often shows mystical Greek or Italian influence. It can be purchased on her website and she will make jewelry to your order. She is still in business today in 2006.

ELIZABETH ARDEN: 1939 - Present

Elizabeth Arden is the jewelry trademark used by Elizabeth Arden Sales, NY founded by Florence Nightingale Graham in 1939.

ELIZABETH MORREY: 1950s - Present

House parties in the 1950s to 1960s. Designed include some of the ethnic faces in molded plastic.

ELLEN DESIGNS: 1984 - Present

The company started as Fashioncraft Jewelry Co., Inc., became Robert Originals (Robert Levy owner), and in 1984, Ellen Jeffee Wagman, the President, changed the name to Ellen Designs.

EMMONS: 1948 - 1981

The company, Emmons Home Fashions and later called Emmons Jewelry Inc., was founded by Charles H. Stuart in Newark, NJ in 1948. The company was named after his wife Caroline Emmons and started marketing jewelry that was not designed or manufactured at the company but was outsourced to companies in the Providence, RI area. The jewelry produced was skillfully constructed, designed beautifully and arranged similar to that of Miriam Haskell, De Mario, and Robert using richly textured and layered faux pearl, beads and rhinestones on silver metals and sold at home parties (sister companies were Sarah Coventry and Avon). Mark: "EMMONS" or "EMMONS with a copyright symbol", and "EMMOLITE" since Jan. 1955. Emmons ceased operations in 1981.

ENGEL BROTHERS: 1930s - 1960s

The Engel Brothers Company was an American maker of Art Deco rhinestone jewelry starting in the 1930s through 1960s. The jewelry consisted of sterling silver, rhodium plated, and gold plated metal. Retros were done in the 1940s. Mark: "EB", "EB" in a diamond shape.

ERIC GROSSBARDT: Two Centuries to Present

For over 2 centuries, the Asch and Grossbardt families under the cofounders Larry Asch and Eric Grossbardt founded Asch/Grossbardt Inc. in New York with the company producing fine jewelry, made in the U.S.A., and their collection of jewelry is known throughout the world.  See Asch/Grossbardt Jewelry for additional information.

Eric Grossbradt began his career in fine jewelry with Honora, a company founded by his father, Jerome Grossbardt. Both these company’s names Eric Grossbardt and Honora are selling some of their jewelry on QVC.com and the QVC TV Network.

The jewelry, manufactured and sold by Eric on QVC, consists of pendants, earrings, cuff bracelets, charm bracelets, necklaces, and rings, some made to look like sunflowers, starfish, and faces. His Masterpiece Collection of inspired designs was influenced by the style of immortal painter, Pablo Picasso creating a face in the design using gemstones fitted and inlaid in 18k gold and sterling silver. The Museum Collection with gemstones fitted and inlaid in quality sterling silver with an 18k frame or accent using a mixture and combination of inlays of green malachite, rhodonite (a light rose in color to flesh pink stone with black veins and inclusions of manganese oxide, orange and purple tiger’s, spiny oyster, Chinese blue turquoise, white, pink, gray and yellow mother-of-pearl, black and green agate, red and pink coral, lapis lazuli, red jasper, black onyx, red and pink coral and white and multi-color mother-of-pearl stones. The gemstones are treated to enhance their beauty. Mark: Stamped and Hallmarked: “EG, 925 and 18k, China”.

In May of 2000. Eric Grossbardt became the sole owner of Asch/Grossbardt Inc. when the cofounder, Larry Asch died from pancreatic cancer after more than 50 years in the jewelry industry. The QVC jewelry produced by Eric Grossbradt is inlaid to create a dramatic work of art, has beautiful designs and is reasonable priced.

ERWIN PEARL: 1952 - Present

Erwin Pearl founded Erwin Pearl Inc. as a fine jewelry firm in 1957. He was born in Austria and grew up in Belgium and the U.S. where his parents had sent him to live with his uncle at the outbreak of WWII. Erwin Pearl became one of the world’s top diamond cutters and started designing his own jewelry using real diamonds, real pearls, and precious stones. His customers included leaders in society, politics, and entertainment. His attention to detail and outstanding workmanship added touches to the pieces designed and manufactured and this contributed to the fine jewelry Pearl produced. He has been the recipient of diamond and pearl design awards. In 1970, Erwin Pearl started designing costume jewelry using clear and colored rhinestones and crystals, and glass pearls with brushed gold-tone metal bases that created the look of elegance and class for daytime and evening wear. Card marked: "Erwin Pearl". It is said that Erwin Pearl makes costume jewelry in moods from cool fun to the tailored business look. Erwin Pearl stores are located throughout the U.S. Many new designs are being produced today and include: Adorable pooches pins, Sterling initial pendants and rings, Turquoise and sterling silver jewelry, Zirconium jewelry, Bridal and dressy pearls collection with glass pearls, Rainbow crystal jewelry, Chandelier jewelry, Austrian crystals and French enamel jewelry, Two-tone goldtone and silvertone jewelry, Men’s accessories - money clips, key chains, and cufflinks, Rainforest pins, Pure silver jewelry and Watch collection. His costume jewelry lines have increased dramatically. Prices range from high to low cost items.

EUGENE: 1950 - 1960

Eugene (Gene) Schultz, designer of costume jewelry Eugene, worked as a designer for Miriam Haskell before manufacturing jewelry under his own name around 1950. The jewelry, of excellent quality, used artificial pearls and fantastically brilliant clear and colored rhinestones and produced beautiful figural pins. Little is know about the Eugene jewelry. It has been indicated that Eugene jewelry was designed and produced for the Perry Como TV show as Schultz was a roommate of Henry Howard who produced the show. Mark: "Eugene" in script. The Eugene Company ceased operations in 1960. The jewelry must have been produced in limited quantities since it is relatively rare today.

FENICHEL: 1940s - 1950s

Fenichel is a mystery mark found on beautiful jewelry that appears to date starting in the 1940s with excellent rhinestones, gold plated and rhodium plated metal bases, with enameling overlay and simply beautiful construction. It is rarely seen but when seen is of excellent quality. Mark: "Fenichel". Because the mark has no copyright symbol, it was probably produced before 1955. The location of the company is unknown.

FISHEL NESSLER: 1885 - 1937

Carl Fishel and Nessler (First name unknown) founded Fishel Nessler & Co. on Fifth Avenue, NY in 1885 producing silver plated with a brass tone finish necklace chains (rope), rich in patina with clear beads and crystals of floral designs with a distinctive screw barrel closure. Mark: “F.N. CO.”, “FN & Co.”. By 1930, the pins, necklaces, dress clips, and bracelets were sterling silver or rhodium plated base metal paved with simulated stones including turquoise, sapphire etc. along with the clear beads and crystals. Mark: “fish motif with FN Co. inside the design“, “fish motif and STERLING inside the design with an L outside its nose”. The company was best known for the Art Deco style necklaces, pins and earrings made in the 1920’s and 1930’s using high quality Austrian crystals and rhinestones beads or cabochons and simulated stones pave set into sterling silver, silver and rhodium plated base metals. The company ceased operations in 1937. Fishel Nessler jewelry is not common and is hard to find.

A Carl Fishel, Gustavo Trifari, and Leo Krussman had been employed by Rice & Hockster, a maker of women’s shoe buckles and hair ornaments and all three had seen service in World War I, 1917-1919. The company manufactured women’s high top shoe buckles and bobbed hair ornaments. Paris was the fashion capital of the world and had dictated that women keep their hair long and held in place by lovely celluloid and rhinestones combs and wear high buckle shoes but styles were changing. After Carl Fishel’s vacation trip to Paris, France in 1921, and with the trend of French women’s styles changing to no longer bobbing their hair and no longer wearing high top shoes, and stagnant in sales, a change of product line was necessary. Now, with the popularity of the gold chain necklace (rope), the company in 1921 changed its product line producing the gold chain necklace (rope) that was inspired by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. The company opened its own jewelry business of Trifari, Krussman and Fishel (Head of Sales) in 1925. See Trifari for additional information on this company.

FLORENZA:: 1937 - 1981

Designer Daniel Kasoff (original name Kosovsky) worked for Speier Costume Jewelry Company for 10 years before starting his own Dan Kosoff Company NY in 1937. The name "Florenza" came from Dan Kosoff’s wife "Florence". His son Larry entered into the business in 1950 when the company started making Florenza jewelry. The jewelry lines produced encompasses high quality workmanship, materials and designs. Some jewelry produced leans towards the Victorian and Regency styles. The metalwork, frequently in antiqued gold-tone metal is ornamented by distinct and superior rhinestones of pastel, frosted, and aurora borealis colors. Florenza jewelry has innovative use of beautiful rhinestones that makes its jewelry sought after by collectors. Mark: "Florenza" in script, "Florenza with a copyright symbol". The company also made boutique items such as ring boxes, pin cushions animals, lipstick holders, frames in a French gold color to name a few. The company ceased operations in 1981.

FREIRICH: 1920 - 1990

Solman Freirich, in the 1920s, acquired the Maison David Company, a French manufacturer of clothing and accessories including hats, hat pins, couture buttons, and ornamentation production on garments of clothing. He expanded his business to the U.S. creating the Freirich Company in the 1960s and began selling costume jewelry. He kept the Maison David Company in France. The jewelry designed was hand-made, hand-set, and hand-wired on to a filigree or regular base of goldtone metal and enamel overlay with floral accents using high quality diamond looking rhinestones and faceted glass stones and beads. His son Arthur joined the firm in 1955 and expanded their lines of costume jewelry into the antique look of the Victorian style. The early Freirich jewelry was mostly unmarked, but from 1964, it was marked: "FREIRICH". The company ceased operations in 1990.

 

 

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